You know how it goes down during fashion week. I start penning for other people like my life depends on it so here is an expanded version of the piece I wrote for Dazed Digital on the poignant Givenchy show that took place last night: “It was a celebration of my ten years at Givenchy but more to the point, it was a celebration of life. How we all arrived together an made Givenchy happen. How friendships carried us through. On this day, it had to be about love and doing something on the street.
Selection of editorial images dating from 1978 to 1982 from L’Officiel Paris Vogue Runway’s site debut last week kicked off with a millennial-approved look back to the nineties. Sarah Mower argues that by virtue of fashion’s cyclical nature, a simple equation of subtracting 25 from our current year, tells us that what went down stylistically in 1990 will be of interest to us today. Demz the rules of fashion nostalgia (and in the case of sartorial adopters and designers,
There’s been an awful lot of “pretend” tennis action for me this week. At Tommy Hilfiger’s Rafael Nadal strip tennis match in New York’s Bryant Park, umpired by Jane Lynch, I watched models strip down to their undies (as well as the great Rafa himself) whilst being lambasted by Lynch’s Coach Sue Sylvester persona. And then a few days before that, I went down to my consistently deserted local tennis court to indulge in a bit of sweatband wearing, plastic
There are more pros than cons to having a boyfriend, who also writes in the digital fashion-y realm and. The occasional con being that once in a while, we’ll find ourselves arguing about the most pointless and irrelevant (to our relationship that is) topics such as disagreeing over Ryan McGinley’s aesthetic or whether FKA Twigs’ i-D cover did in fact spawn baby hair mayhem. The pros are though whilst weathering jet lagged sleeping patterns together in New York, we can get productive and spur
There are few instances from the last decade that I can recall where a fashion collection has truly gone viral in reality. By “viral” I mean actually spotting multiple instances of one fashion collection on the streets – and by “streets”, I don’t mean Tommy Ton’s street style images shot in the heightened environment of fashion weeks. I mean sightings on yer’ average street, occurring in mathematically improbable numbers. One such example that struck me this week was the
I’ve never been quite sure how to do “lady”. By “lady”, I mean the image prescribed to me by Doris Day films, where head to toe colour schemes, a strict posture and matching hats and gloves all utilised simultaneously to instil fear in the slouchy, mismatched and messy likes of me. You wonder whether Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough from Proenza Schouler looked at similar “lady” images – maybe these ones depicting impossibly chic women
Interiors of Charleston I have a few places on my list to day trip whilst August limps by. High on this list is Charleston in Sussex, the bucolic getaway of the Bloomsbury set in the 1960s, conjured and nurtured by painter Vanessa Bell, sister of Virginia Woolf and kindred spirited artist Duncan Grant. I doubt I’ll be the only one as the house is expected to be flooded with tourists following the airing of three part BBC drama about the Bloomsbury group, Life in Squares, which just concluded
This post Cali-funk ends today. As haute couture in Paris quickly segued into my holiday, I’ve lagged behind a bit on thoughts on the remainder of the week. I wanted to revisit John Galliano’s second show Artisanal show for Maison Margiela in particular for its all-angles, all-encompassing eclecticism. Experimental, expressive and even non-sensical in some places, it was certainly a contrasting side to the couture coin, where a designer quite literally dons a white lab coat and the atelier
Miu Miu has permanently ensconced their shows at the Palais D’Iena in Paris since… I don’t remember when so travelling to some far-out location for their resort (or croisière as the folks at Miu Miu like to call it) show was never going to be on the cards. Entering the space last night, and beneath the seedy clear plastic stripping, industrial rave scaffolding and neon lights was the Miu Miu Club, a starkly different affair from the Miu Miu London club from a few years back.
A few weeks ago, I downloaded Face Tune on to my phone for the first time. Quasi Luddite that i am, and not quite knowing how to use this beautifying, selfie-perfecting app properly, I played around with the extremities of pinching in my cheeks to get rid of my Chinese “moon” face, elongating the body and shrinking the bingo wings and the thighs. I’ve not yet been able to bring myself to actually post one of these tuned-up photographs and yet the fascination with the
>> Another short trip notched up in New York meant another trip to Paintbox, not with palm trees, pineapples or other emoji-esque motifs that are so de rigueur of summer manicures. Instead, pastel speckled foam came to mind – sometimes called compressed or recycled foam – and normally used as furniture stuffing or flooring underlay. Its haphazard colour qualities and reconstituted material composition mean that anything from powder blue to slate grey to lemon yellow could be
The other day, when I saw a PR from Alexander McQueen, he told me he had just returned from holiday to recuperate from what had been an intensely mammoth month for the brand. The A/W 15-6 show in Paris was quickly followed up by the spectacular opening of Savage Beauty at the Victoria & Albert Museum and the intensive media spotlight surrounding the homecoming of this exhibition. The exhibition may be done and dusted in terms of the media hubhub but the visitors are continuing to stream
The plus points of being in a relationship with somebody who also works in fashion is that you can easily wile away an evening discussing the finer points of how lad culture has permeated fashion. Wait, did I say that was a plus point? It might be a bore for some, but Steve’s piece for i-D about how “lad” streetstyle – or to those from outside of the UK, male youth armies decked out in head to toe sportswear brands like Fila, Nike and Reebok striding around with a sort
“Agender” is a word I’ve been pondering for a while now, spurred by Selfridges’ seasonal project, which kicked off last month, with a set of conceptual windows and in-store space designed by the brilliant Faye Toogood. From the perspective of Selfridges – a mainstream department store, Agender seeks to strip away conventional gender separation whereby women head to the womenswear department and men head to the menswear floor. “For us, Agender is not about harnessing a ‘trend’
Somewhere in the beginning of the year, Christopher Kane quietly got himself a website. There’s a bio and a contact page – yesss, you go Kane, with your crazy web antics. Ok so it’s a bit sparse but it’s certainly a step up from being one of the most un-Google-able designers of our generation. The website is primarily a showcase and a nudge to go to the store which opened its doors on Mount Street just before London Fashion Week. If ever you needed physical
“It’s too Galliano. It’s not Margiela enough!” were the murmurings that could be heard immediately after the Maison Margiela ready to wear show, despite the raucous applause and cries for John Galliano to emerge (he did not – apparently he had even disappeared through the backdoor before journalists could even get to him). It’s the latest round of Goldi-maison conversation where we’re quick to judge a collection based on preconceived (and often rigid) notions of what a house stands for.